30 REAL-LEADERS.COM / SUMMER 2022 KNOW SOMEONE WHO IS INSPIRING THE FUTURE AS A CHANGEMAKER? EMAIL US AT EDITORIAL@REAL-LEADERS.COM In 2012, South African Laduma Ngxokolo wanted to explore knitwear design suitable for amakrwala — initiates of his Xhosa tribe who undergo a rite of passage to adulthood. His initial vision was to create a modern Xhosainspired knitwear collection suitable for a market that had adopted Western dress for more than a century, but he soon discovered that the world was in love with his unique designs. His brand, Maxhosa Africa, now develops premium knitwear for global customers, celebrating traditional Xhosa aesthetics. He must be doing something right. In 2018, Ngxokolo’s lawyers sent stern letters to global fashion retailer Zara, accusing them of copying one of his best-selling designs on a range of socks. It’s a reminder that while imitation is the best form of flattery, the appropriation of traditional (or any) design can land you in hot water. It’s also a lesson to business leaders on the value of indigenous assets that can turn into great business ideas if approached properly and in an inclusive way. Like most new ventures, Ngxokolo’s first challenge was to turn his idea into reality by building a reliable and sustainable supply chain. While in Cape Town for a cultural event, he decided to find a factory to make his garments. Cape Town is known as one of the garment capitals of Africa, but he found a cold reception. Those he approached weren’t even prepared to look at his work, saying they were only interested in massive volumes and simple designs — based on what the market was already buying. Eventually, he met a Mauritian knitwear CULTURALLY APPROPRIATE: FASHION THAT CELEBRATES IDENTITY Laduma Ngxokolo has taken traditional patterns from his indigenous South African Xhosa tribe and given them a modern twist. As a result, he’s winning people over worldwide, one jumper at a time. “THERE HAS ALWAYS BEEN IMPORTED OR LOCAL KNITWEAR AROUND THAT IS FREELY AVAILABLE, BUT NOT IN TERMS OF DESIGN; NONE OF IT HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH OUR LOCAL CULTURAL AESTHETICS.” — LADUMA NGXOKOLO By Jacklyn Kawane ETHICAL FASHION Opposite: South African fashion designer Laduma Ngxokolo has found a new market for reinterpreted cultural designs inspired by his indigenous Xhosa identity.
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